After Kruger National Park and driving
for ourselves, it was surprisingly nice to head to the opposite end of
South Africa. In Cape Town, we not only could explore without a car
but managed to never even take a taxi.
Cape Town is a wonderful city. We spent
four nights there before moving slightly north into the Western Cape
Winelands. While there, we visited Robben Island, the V&A
Waterfront, Table Mountain, Simon's Town and Boulders Beach, Long
Street, the Castle of Good Hope, Camps Bay, and District Six. In the
interest of easy transportation, we went full tourist, using a
hop-on, hop-off double-decker bus tour to get between most of those
places.
Robben Island was, without a
doubt, the highlight of the entire trip for me. It is an island that
first served as a leper colony-making it my second island leper
colony visit after Chacachacarie in Trinidad-then as a prison. It is
most known for holding political prisoners such as Nelson Mandela and
Jacob Zuma during Apartheid. Today it is a UNESCO heritage site and
well worth the visit.
As our boat arrived on the island, we
were treated to an incredible animal siting: a seal successfully
attacking a cormorant. We were unsure whether the seal would be
victorious as the cormorant kept popping back to the surface,
however, after ten minutes of attacks, the seal had its dinner. We
disembarked and were shuffled onto tour buses. The tour buses drive
around the island, explaining the historical significance of various
buildings, the stories of select inmates, and even allows stops to get
out for photo opportunities at a viewpoint of Table Mountain and at
the most famous Lime Quarry on the island.
Listening to the history of the island
and hearing the guide talk gracefully about the latent racism present
in its history stunned me. Because the residential community of
guards was small and the government was so afraid of the political
prisoners kept on the island, after a few years of keeping political
prisoners on Robben Island, they banned black guards from working
there. Basically, the white guards did not want to be forced to
interact socially with blacks and this was a strong enough belief at
the time in South Africa that it affected prison policy.
The Lime Quarry prisoners like Neslon Mendella worked at, including their only shelter: the cave in the background. |
Similarly, when the government first
began incarcerating black male political prisoners (white political
prisoners and black female political prisoners were kept at other
prisons on the mainland), they continued to house criminal prisoners
there as well. This changed because instead of the political
prisoners being intimidated by the criminal prisoners, the criminal
prisoners began believing the ideology of the political prisoners.
This, of course, was very dangerous for the Aparthied government, so
the criminal prisoners were removed.
Hearing the various “crimes”
political prisoners were incarcerated for still stuns me. I simply do
not understand how the rest of the world was able to ignore Apartheid
in the wake of the Holocaust. As intellectuals and academics studied
and created the steps of genocide, they blatantly ignored the fact
that South Africa was employing multiple steps toward genocide: the
creation of homelands and moving black citizens into districts,
requires all blacks to carry cards and buy permits to travel outside
of their homelands or district, etc. The number of people being
imprisoned as political prisoners was astounding.
As the bus tour concluded, we were sent
into the actual prison, where we met Derick Basson. Mr. Basson was
incarcerated at Robben Island from 1986 until the political prisoners
were released in 1991. His prisoner number was 1986 as he was the
19th inmate brought to Robben Island in 1986 (To put that
in perspective, Nelson Mandela's number was 46664 as he was the 466th
inmate of 1964).
Mr. Basson spoke extensively about life
in the prison. He acknowledged the changes in treatment of inmates
over time, such as the closing of the lime quarries that prisoners
had been forced to work in for decades. He shared information about
the food and clothing made available to political prisoners, which
was different for those that were 100% black versus those of mixed
heritage.
"Human dignity is everything"
|
There is something enthralling about
watching an eloquent man speak quietly and passionately about such a
difficult time in both his and his country's past. It astounds me
that someone could feel so strongly about the concept of equality and
human dignity that he is willing to revisit the very cells of his
incarceration, to share anecdotes of everything including the
discomfort of cavity searches on a daily basis. According to Mr.
Basson, he is willing to continue to live on the island, although now
in the former guard housing, and face his past in hopes of preventing
similar inequalities from being accepted in the present and the
future.
I found visiting Robben Island more
powerful than visiting the concentration camp Dachau. Like Robben
Island, Dachau held primarily political prisoners. Although it had
gas chambers, extermination was not part of its history. I left both
with a similarly powerful conviction that I must be as a strong and
just member of the human race with the ability to stand up against
such horrible possibilities. And yet, it seemed more real at Robben
Island. Maybe, because unlike Dachau, the buildings are still
standing and even usable. Maybe because the island held political
prisoners for the first decade of my own life. Maybe because I live
in Lesotho and am more closely in tune with the news reports that
highlight post-Apartheid racial challenges in South Africa today.
Maybe because of Derick Basson and his life story as just one of many
men still alive who lived in the cells we sat in. Regardless of why,
visiting Robben Island was an experience I think most of us could use
to remind ourselves the value of humanity and human dignity.
In the words of Derick Basson, “
Human dignity is everything.”
On Monday, we
visited the Castle of Good Hope, which is actually a fort and
not a castle in the European sense of the word. The fort was built by
the Dutch in the 1600s and has been surprisingly well maintained over
the last 400 years. As Americans who have visited many forts, Kathy
and I were surprised by the amount of freedom a self-guided tour
allowed. As litigious Americans, we found ourselves atop the fort, no
guardrails to protect us from our own stupidity.
The fort makes a
big deal about its torture chamber, as Dutch law required torture
during interrogation during the 1600s. Signage notes that each
“procedure” was carefully documented. As we left the fort to
explore its small adjoining orchard, the menacing doors of the main
entrance were closed behind us. We had scooted ahead of a large tour
group at the torture chamber, so perhaps they were being locked in
for some living history?
We explored Long
Street briefly and found the perfect little tapas and wine bar for
lunch before heading up to Table Mountain. We arrived and got
off the bus. Two minutes later, we were on the bus again, headed to
Camps Bay. Table Mountain was closed due to high winds. When we
reached Camps Bay, we learned what locals do on beautiful, sunny
holidays (It was National Women's Day-a work holiday in South
Africa); they go to the beaches. The entire town was packed. We
explored a bit but were mostly overwhelmed and headed back towards
Cape Town.
Atop Table Mountain |
Tuesday morning
was once again clear and the wind forecast had diminished, so we
rushed to Table Mountain. This trip was more successful,
although we were heavily jostled by Chinese tourists and had the
pleasure of watching a man attempt to confront some pushy tourists.
It was unsuccessful as the Chinese tourists immediately acted as if
they did not understand despite having spoke English only a few
minutes earlier. Once the funicular reached the top, we set out on
the longest trail around the top of the mountain. As we got away from
the crowds, we enjoyed the views of both Cape Town and the beaches we
had visited the day before. It is truly a stunning view.
We stopped being
tourists and played shoppers for the afternoon. We popped in and out
of various shops at the V&A Waterfront. We also found a place
with local micro-brews where I was able to enjoy my first porter in 14
months!
Penguins! |
Wednesday was a
full day. We checked out of the wonderful hotel we had been staying
at (Thank you Marriott Rewards and Protea North Wharf Hotel, we love
you both!) but kept our luggage there for the day. Then we boarded
the Metrorail to head south to Simons Town and Boulders
Beach. Boulders Beach is heralded as one of the strongest nesting
grounds for the African Penguin nee Jackass Penguin. We enjoyed the
trip and I took far too many photographs as every minute there was a
siting better than the 200 before.
On our way back
into Cape Town, I shot our hostel in Stellenbosch an email asking if
they could pick us up at the train station as we would arrive shortly
after dark. We zoomed from the train station to the hotel and back,
then waited for our train to Stellenbosch in the winelands region of
Western Cape. Of course, leaving the city at five meant the
atmosphere at the train station was profoundly busier and more rushed
than when we had done so at ten am to head to Simons Town. We got our
train and even managed to get seats. We breathed a communal sigh of
relief and settled into the incredibly full car.
Half an hour
later, the train stopped. Not like it stopped at the station, let
folks embark or disembark, then continued. It stopped at a station
and did not start again. We watched the commuters around us as they
ignored the issue, so we too ignored it. After twenty minutes or so,
we started moving again. We made it as far as the next station, where
the train stopped again. This time, as we sat there, we watched
people jump off our train to board passing trains-sometimes hopping
the tracks and just jumping onto the space between two cars. Kathy
and I looked at each other, uncertain as to our best option. I
checked the train timetables to see if there was another train coming
that we could get on, however, the Metrorail website said there was
not.
After another
thirty minutes, we were still sitting there and my leg was numb
thanks to the weight of my backpack-which was holding all our heavy
stuff-on it. I moved to one of the empty seats where I could set it
down and ended up next to an Afrikaner. We ended up chatting and
Saint John I, as Kathy and I have affectionately named our helpful
new friend, took us under his wing. He called Metrorail and figured
out what train options would work for both him and for us as we were
traveling further than he was. He even connected us with other
passengers headed to Stellenbosch.
We eventually
switched to train going almost all the way to Stellenbosch. By this
time, it was completely dark. We got off at the last stop that train
was visiting, which was Saint John I's stop. According to his earlier
phone call, we arrived four minutes before the train we needed.
However, after ten minutes, we had seen no signs of said train. He
again called Metrorail and reassured us that in the worst case, he
would drive us to Stellenbosch. While he was on the phone, he
disappeared. Despite our current trust in Saint John I, I was nervous
that we were stuck somewhere we did not know, after dark, without the
number for a taxicab or anything else.
Saint John I
eventually returned with his friend from church, Saint John II and
the news that the train was in fact still on its way. Saint John II
was only traveling one more station with us but offered us a ride
from there to our hostel in Stellenbosch. We said goodbye and gave
profuse thanks to Saint John I. Soon, the train arrived, with only
one car lit up. The dozen of us still there boarded and sat down.
Before the train departed-it was waiting for one more train that
might have also carried lost souls from our train-a Metrorail
security guard came in and asked if there were any tourists present.
Our new posse of Stellenbosch travelers pointed to us and the guard
ensured we knew what we were doing. We could not help but laugh at
them for being two hours too late.
Twenty minutes
later, we were in Saint John II's Mercedes, headed to Stellenbosch.
As I checked my email for the hostel address, I noted an email from
Nico, one of the iKhaya Backpackers staffers, frantic with worry that
we had not arrived yet. I called him to both reassure him and confirm
directions and soon Saint John II was carrying our bags into the
hostel. Ikhaya had upgraded our room, giving us a private apartment,
which we were ready for after such adventure. We ate our lunch
leftovers and crashed.
The plan for
Thursday had been Shark Cage Diving, because seeing Great White
Sharks in the wild is on my Africa Experiences list, however, gale
force winds and a small craft advisory canceled our trip. Thus, we
spent Thursday exploring Stellenbosch. It turned into a life
maintenance day complete with haircuts and pedicures.
Our last vineyard and amazing cheese tray! |
Friday, we checked
out of the hostel and headed out on a Wine Tour with Afrivista
Tours. It was only us and 3 female med students from the UK. We
visited four vineyards, had lunch, and enjoyed a cheese plate at our
last vineyard. It was an amazing day during which Kathy and I
realized we have now visited vineyards on three continents together.
Three more and we will have done it on them all! New life goal is
set!
Our tour guide
dropped us off at the bus stop in Paarl, where we caught our
overnight bus back towards Lesotho and the next part of Kathy's
Africa Adventure.
Table Mountain from Robben Island. Visit this album to see more photos from Cape Town, Kruger, and Lesotho. |
Wine Tasting |
1 comment:
Thanks for the information! I am looking to travel to Cape Town. I was initially scared because I thought that Cape Town's dams
were dangerously low. After doing my own research I see they are fine, and I have no hesitations to go visit!
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