Note to Self: Peace Corps Lesotho Edition

I recently saw an interview of Gayle King on The Daily Show about her new book, Note to Self: Inspiring Words from Inspiring People. The book is based on letters to a younger self that people, mostly celebrities, have been asked to write. I was inspired to use the concept to reflect on my own growth and experience living abroad in Lesotho as a Peace Corps Volunteer for the last four years. So here goes:

Dear 2014 Beth, 

You are about to embark on an incredible experience. Stop worrying about what you are going to pack and stop wasting money on clothes to last you for the next two years. They literally sell clothes on the street in Lesotho. Do not fret about the investment in quality footwear though, you will wear out four pairs of shoes in the next few years. Also, the solar panel is a brilliant investment.

Instead, keep doing what you are doing. Maximize your time making memories with family and friends before you go. Invest in them as those relationships will sustain you through more than you imagine in the next few years. You are about to experience more happiness and pain than you knew was possible.

Just a typical day in Ha Rasekila at work with the
women in the community group.

You are worried about loneliness, feeling like an outsider, and isolation. You are going to let this fear motivate you through long language lessons. Even after you have a passable command of Sesotho, keep studying and learning. You will never regret taking the time to learn and practice the language. It is one of the greatest ways to show respect, bond with people, and to be professionally effective.

When you finish training and it is time to buy things for your new home, please buy the kitchen table you dream of. Do not let anxiety about surviving on the small Peace Corps living stipend keep you from this splurge. You will want that table for longer than you initially plan to be in Lesotho.

People will wonder at how you live without running water or electricity. In reality, going without those things is not what makes Peace Corps challenging. Spending money on data for Whatsapp calling and voice notes is always worth it. This is not a travel adventure. You will spend twice as long removed from your American family and friends as anticipated. Maintaining those relationships is worth the absurdly small investment in data bundles.

Remembering to stop and enjoy the goofy moments of life
with my great friend Luwi. 

Despite all the warnings in mandated Peace Corps security sessions, most Basotho are only interested in talking to you and welcoming you. Do not be stupid about your safety, but do not close yourself off either.

You will be in Lesotho a long time. In the end, your closest friends and supporters will be the host country nationals you get to know. Invest more time and energy in those relationships sooner instead of in the comfort of American peers.

Drinking Ricoffee (instant chicory root coffee) for the first six months is not worth the savings. Stock up on filter coffee that one time you shop in the capital. It is not integration to deprive yourself of this small luxury.

Take more photos of the everyday moments of your life and fewer photos at events. Some day you will return home and want to share the mundane aspects of life with people.

Trips home to visit family and friends are always worth the travel time, jet lag, and money. You will get to meet your infant goddaughter, see your ailing father, and keep relationships strong even after you decide to double down your PC service. Learn from the Basotho culture and put people first when your friend calls to announce and celebrate her engagement, promise to attend the wedding right then instead of changing your mind six weeks before the wedding.

Your house will be your comfort zone and break from the challenges of living in a foreign language and culture, but get outside of it! Walk around the community and greet people, go to community meetings and events, do your chores outside. Loneliness is of your own making. There are a ton of people just outside your door eager to welcome and befriend you. With time, your community will become your comfort zone. After you move away, returning to see them will be the best homecoming you can imagine.

My Basotho family has been a huge part of my life and
experience. I am so blessed to have been welcomed
into their lives.

Never fail to appreciate the moments people invite you into their family or cultural traditions. Such love and welcome may come at bad times or with expectations, but it is such an incredibly unique honor.

You will spend a large part of the next four years being uncomfortable. In your first year, it will feel like a great adventure even if some days, you will lose the battle and hide in your house. Although you will gain experience and get used to a lot of things, even after four years, you will still have moments that you have no idea what is going on, what someone is telling you, or what is expected of you. That is just the reality of life in another culture. Embrace it because those uncomfortable moments often open you up to some of your greatest experiences. You are not moving around the world to be surrounded by the familiar and easy.

Right now, you have days that you question whether you are doing the right thing by moving around the world for two years. When you receive your Sesotho name from your first host family, you will be reassured that you are where you belong as they explain in great depth that your new name means "God's will." You will question everything again during your first extension when you are blindsided by incredible loss and, ultimately, you will recognize that every step of your life's journey was leading you to Lesotho.

With the two men who have had the greatest
influence and impact on my life in Lesotho. 

In the next four years, you will develop such strong bonds with new friends and family members that you will question how you survived over thirty years without these people in your life. You will spend more time alone. You will learn just how much American culture influences your own thoughts and reactions to the world around you. You will fall in love with so many aspects of Basotho culture and with so many people.

In four years, when it is finally time to return to America, you find yourself right back where you are right now. You will wonder if leaving home and going to the US is really right path for your life. Have faith. In another four years, you can write yourself an updated version of this letter. It will, undoubtedly, be full of reassurances and growth. Until then, embrace people and experiences. Make the most of every moment.

With love,
               Thato, 2018

Dino Printing

Dinosaur footprints in Morija, Lesotho

200 million years ago Lesotho, like much of the world, was home to dinosaurs. There is even a dinosaur named after Lesotho: the Lesothosaurus. This dinosaur was a small, agile, herbivore, traveled on two legs, and would have been about thigh high on an adult human.

Thanks to a geography that includes a lot of visible rock formations, fossilized footprints are scattered throughout the country today.

Over the last six months, I have finally had the opportunity to visit two of these sites.

Morija Prints

Somewhere up there are some dinosaur footprints...

The first of these adventures was in Morija, a village in Maseru district. Along with three fellow PCVs, we set out early on a Saturday morning in April, mostly to beat the sunny heat. From my friends' house, it was a vertical climb to reach the prints. As it was late autumn, we were under constant attack by my least favorite thing about Lesotho--a weed called Blackjack that clings to clothing.

Wildlife and Waterfall: 5 Days in Victoria Falls

My friend and fellow PCVL, Catie, and I are walking down a road chatting away and scoping out Baobab trees. When we had been closer to the river, I had startled Catie by pretending I saw a giant crocodile approaching, causing her to scream. Suddenly, glancing past her, I stopped short...instead of jumping her, I whisper, "Holy crap! That's an elephant."

Because I had jumped her earlier, Catie didn't believe me. But once I convinced her her to glance to our left, she too saw the giant back end of an elephant, not thirty feet away from us. We didn't even pause for photos, too nervous about being that close to an elephant without the protection of a car. We speed walked away whispering jokes that ultimately led to our Instagram hashtag of the trip: #HowWeDiedToday.

Catie and I spent our first few days in Victoria Falls avoiding the town's namesake. We spent far more time checking out wildlife than the falls.

We went to a private resort to watch vultures dining...

Just a hundred vulture friends pushing each other around for a scrap of cow.

We enjoyed a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River upstream from the falls...

A hippo yawn is an impressive sight!

Three Photo Thursday - Thanksgiving Special

Happy Thanksgiving to my American readers!

In honor of Thanksgiving, combined with the many special moments I have been enjoying as I work on saying goodbye to my village, this week's Three Photos are things I am incredibly thankful for over the last two and a half years.

My brothers, my host mother, and I walked to our grandparent's house last Saturday. Not only is the walk itself absolutely stunning, but given my impending departure, time with this family is particularly precious! I have been so blessed to have this family as my own for the last thirty months.

Abuti Polau, Abuti Mokhesuoe, and me at my grandparent's house in Maloseng.

I enjoyed yet another wonderful meal with my adopted Indian family over the weekend. We exchanged early Christmas gifts, ate too much delicious food, and then stepped outside for photos. An hour later, we were still posing as the sun set! I have been so blessed to have this family in my life and to be so included in their activities!

Saying Goodbye Part 1

As I prepare to leave my village for the last two and half years; saying goodbye has become a regular part of my daily life.

There is no easy way in Sesotho or English to explain to my local friends and family just how much I will miss them when I depart. Last week I attended a community gathering and tried to say in words exactly how important the community is to me.

To translate for you, I said:

Two Years and Sixteen Volunteers

Fresh off the plane: June 5, 2014

Last week I highlighted the accomplishments of my Peace Corps training group in light of our work as defined by and reported to Peace Corps. Numbers of people reached in specific topics, however, only shares a small portion of our story.

One of my favorite things about the Healthy Youth program in Lesotho, is that each volunteer’s job responsibilities and activities are unique to their site. As a result, we worked in a number of areas, some overlapping and some unique to only one or two of us. Here is a sampling of the work that filled our days:

Health

• Worked in a clinic to increase ARV adherence and infant wellness checks 
• Weighed infants and worked with Village Health Workers in an outreach clinic
• Started a growth monitoring and intervention program at an orphanage
• Worked with three HIV+ Teen Clubs

Youth Development

• Directed 6 overnight camps serving more than 425 girls and boys in six of Lesotho’s ten districts
• Completed more than 20 Grassroot Soccer Interventions to educate on HIV prevention
• Tutored herdboys in computer skills
• Started and led Youth Clubs in Athletics, Gender Empowerment, Drawing, Games, English, and English Reading

PCV Stephanie and colleagues show off the produce at
the orphanage she worked with.
Photo provided by Stephanie Sales.

Income Generation to Support Families and OVCs

• Two community-based sewing businesses
• A farm including water accessibility for an orphanage
• Started three chicken projects
• An achaar project
• Fenced a farm and orchard to protect product from cattle
• Advised five agricultural co-operatives
• Helped a women’s and girl’s weaving group with marketing and market development

Community Engagement

• Planned  and led four World AIDS Day events including talent shows, voluntary HIV testing, 
• Built a multi-purpose athletic court for one of Lesotho’s largest towns
• Planned and led a Spread the Love, Not the Disease Valentine’s Day event with over 100 youth participants enjoying face painting, nutrition and fitness info, yoga, HIV testing, and Planned Parenthood
• Hosted a large HIV awareness, testing, and education day for youth
• Built a Community Building with a children’s library
• Worked with Caregiver and OVC Support groups in four communities; building the capacity of caregivers 
• Led a father’s support group through the Red Cross
• Built small greenhouses with families and provided nutrition and gardening lessons to build food security

Education

PCV Eloise's students at the Khotsong Skills Training
Center, a tertiary school.
Photo provided by Eloise Williams

• Started computer labs at 2 tertiary schools
• Worked with a school to help it get internet access for students and teachers
• Taught primary school classes in Life Skills, English & Creative Writing, and Dance
• Taught Life Skills in secondary schools
• Taught at 3 tertiary institutions

Lesotho 82 Peace Corps Volunteers and their counterparts at a workshop.

Learning Language

Attempting to look confused, I stared at the woman in front of me. “Huh?” I said before turning to the two people sitting next to me for help.

The woman in front of me repeated her question, “U roabetse joang?” I continued to look perplexed as I slowly repeated after her, as if trying to remember what the words meant.

Finally, the person to my left whispered to me, “She wants to know how you slept.”

“Oh!” I exclaimed. “Good, um, hantle ‘M’e!”

Although I have known and regularly used these common Sesotho words for over two years, as the American “student” at the LCF [Language and Culture Facilitator] Training last week, my job was to be a new arrival to Lesotho.

Each new LCF took a turn teaching three of us for twenty minutes on topics ranging from simple sentence construction, vocabulary in the kitchen or at the shop, and the future tense. Most of the brand new LCFs were surprisingly good at teaching their topic; however, almost all struggled to not include longer complex sentences in rapid Sesotho as filler in their sessions. I found this entertaining, as I usually understood them, but needed to don a blank, perplexed, or dejected face the way a new trainee would. Obviously, when one is just learning to introduce oneself in Sesotho, complex sentences are too advanced!

After two years living and working in predominantly Sesotho, acting like a new trainee was like time travel. Much the way we forget there was a point we did not know how to read or write, I had forgotten how overwhelming the process of learning the language had been during the early stages of Pre-Service Training.

As new trainees, we had not even been in the country for a single meal before we walked away from our peers and LCFs, following a new host mother to her home. My host mother and sister tried to explain some things to me, but neither spoke English. A short afternoon session may have taught me to say hello and goodbye, but mostly explained, in English, some critical safety information.

That night, I ate dinner surrounded by my new family. Although my host father and the older sister both spoke English, they had been trained to speak mostly Sesotho to me. As I had my first meal of papa and greens, I listened to them talk around me wondering how I would possibly be able to understand them.

The next day, we began our routine of language classes every morning. Despite the skill of our LCFs, I remember many times when they would say something and we trainees would look at each other confused and lost.  

Today, I am confident enough in the language, that even when I do not understand someone, I am able to get clarification in Sesotho instead of English. I credit a huge part of this to my LCFs. Their slow, intentional repetition and immersion-based teaching gave me experience with being uncomfortable or uncertain while still using the language. They gave me a solid base of comprehension that allowed me to walk into a workplace where only one person spoke English and still find ways to accomplish things without relying on translations. Although I continued to study independently and with a tutor, it was the success of the language program during Pre-Service Training that allowed me to do so.

In this video, 'M'e 'Mampho, who was actually my LCF during PST, demonstrates how to teach trainees using no English and very few extra Sesotho words while teaching a lesson on public transportation. How much are you able to understand?

These are a Few of My Favorite Things

As my peers have been packing in preparation for leaving Lesotho, we have been discussing the things we packed two years ago. Most of us overpacked. Some, like me, were able to squeak just under the weight limits for luggage, while others were stuck with steep bag fees as penance for over-preparedness.

Looking back, I brought way too many clothes, some I have never worn and thanks to weight loss, will probably never wear again. Toiletries were another bulky item I brought too much of, as almost everything I need can be found here in Lesotho. There are other things that I brought that I have found invaluable. Here are some of my favorite items:

Number One: Chacos-Anyone who knew me before Peace Corps, already knows that I have been living in Chacos for about a decade now. They are my favorite footwear regardless of weather. They may look tacky with socks under the, but when the winter sun comes out and warms things up, I’d still rather be in my Chacos then sneakers or Toms. Turns out my Chacos-even without socks-are warmer than Toms too, thanks to their thick soles insulating my little feet from cold cement and stone.

Number Two: Bralette-These women-friendly wallets are a brilliant find from Eagle Creek. Pretty much any time I leave my community, I have this little guy tucked away out of site. To steal the majority of my cash, the thief would have to get pretty “friendly” with me and would be walking away with some nasty assault charges. The one time I tucked money in my bra loosely, I lost it. In this nifty, washable, silk guy, I do not even notice it is there until I need access to it! Definitely worth the pennies paid.

Number Three: Goal Zero Solar Panel-Living without electricity, my GoalZero stuff has been a lifesaver. I use it almost every day. I could have bought a solar panel here in Lesotho, however, the GoalZero one is designed to be portable so I can toss it in my backpack when headed to work or to visit other volunteers. The battery packs use AA batteries, so I can stock up on power when it is sunny and store it for cloudy ones. The USB plug in lets me charge my phone, speaker, and camera. My friend ended up with electricity and therefore let me borrow his larger panel as well. This has been invaluable in winter months when the days are shorter, making it harder to get my stuff charged. 

Number Four: Good Knives- Okay, I admit it, but American standards (including my own), the two kitchen knives I brought with me do not actually qualify as “good” knives. Compared to what can easily be purchased here in Lesotho, however, these two knives (and my sharpening stone from my sailing days) have proved invaluable. I have one locally bought knife and its edge is actually more rounded than the edge of a spoon. I tried sharpening it but to no avail. I still do not understand how my brothers and mother can use that knife to peel peaches or squash when I cannot get it to work at all. I am pretty sure my sanity and love of cooking would have both become questionable has I not brought these two colorful knives to keep myself happy.

Number Five: Camera-When it comes to cameras, I definitely overpacked. I brought my trusty DSLR, my iPhone, and an Olympus Stylus Tough. I figured I would use them in that order, however, the reality has been that the Stylus is my go to most of the time. The DSLR is too bulky and too flashy for my every day. The phone takes okay photos, but the Stylus takes great photos and can stand up to life’s challenges. I do not hesitate to let kids hold it and look at or take photos on it. I do not worry about it being exposed during a sudden summer downpour. On top of that, it can charge from my solar panel, unlike my DSLR. (Disclaimer: I still adore my little red DSLR and use it mostly on vacations when I anticipate great opportunities for photography nerdiness.)

Honorable Mention...Also known as What I should have packed…A Pastry Knife-While I have always been a fewer gadgets is better kind of person, my time in Lesotho has me baking far more than I have before. I survived using a fork to break up butter to make scones, sweet breads, apple crisp, and more. Then my sister visited me and laughed at my efforts. As soon as she returned to America, she bought me my very first pastry knife. This thing is better than gold! It does all the things it is supposed to do and even mashes bananas for banana bread and eggs for egg salad!

Gender: LGL Summit and Madagascar

This is the fourth post on a mini-series about gender in Lesotho. While it can be read as a stand alone post, it is best read following Gender: An Intro, Gender: My Role and Work, and Gender: Ototo's Thoughts.

The LGL Summit participants and facilitators with the US Ambassador for Madagascar

As I mentioned in Gender: My Role and Work, I recently had the incredible opportunity to attend the Peace Corps Let Girls Learn Summit for East and Southern Africa in Madagascar.

To get to Madagascar from Lesotho takes two days of travel-the travel time almost identical to traveling to New York. This is not because of time in the air, but the flight times available. So, after traveling all day Saturday and a four hour flight from South Africa on Sunday, we arrived with the Mozambique and South African representatives. We waited around at the airport for a bit as another flight with the rest of the group was delayed. 

As we walked from the airport to the bus, I marveled at the differences in cars from the mainland of Africa. In southern Africa, most cars are Toyotas or Volkswagons. Here, we were surrounded by the rounded bodies of Peugeots and Renaults. It took me a few minutes to realize the other thing that was surprising me: the steering wheels were all on the left side of the cars like in the US. After two years of looking at drivers on the right, I was surprised to see Madagascar is different and that it took me so long to figure it out. 

As we left the airport, dusk was approaching. We drove through the capital city of Antananarivo for a long time, looking at the primarily two-story buildings sitting nearly on top of the roads. By the time we were out of the capital it was dark. Although we were told it was typically a two hour drive to our destination, it took four, partially due to sitting for an hour waiting for an accident to be cleared. 

Despite being travel-weary when we finally arrived at Peace Corps Madagascar's lovely Training Center, it was impossible not to feel welcomed by the friendly, smiling faces of our facilitators, hosts, and fellow participants as we walked into the dining room. 

Team Lesotho rocking our traditional Seshoeshoe dresses:
me, 'M'e 'Mamakola, 'M'e 'Mamasupha, and Katie

Thus began a week of incredible work and fun alongside Peace Corps Volunteers and Staff from eight countries around Africa. Together we learned ways to implement Let Girls Learn in our countries. We started by discussing why girls education is vital to development. Facts such as "Increases in women's education are responsible for more than half the reduction in under-five child mortality," "If every woman had primary education, maternal mortalities could fall by 70%" and "With each additional year of schooling, overall economic growth increases 5%-12%"  really drive home the value of educational opportunity for women and girls in all communities around the globe. 

We spent the bulk of the week looking at how we as Peace Corps can help communities, schools, and individuals place a higher value on the education and success of girls. I am particularly impressed with the way the Peace Corps Headquarters team has designed the program to be woven into the work PCVs in our countries are already working, instead of introducing a huge amount of new work to be done. 

Having education volunteers work to decrease corporal punishment and gender-specific problems at schools, for example, can help girls to stay in school and learn more while there. Working to ensure schools have "girl-friendly" latrines can help girls to not miss school during their menstrual cycles, especially when combined with projects to make reusable pads with the students. In Lesotho, all volunteers work on teaching Life Skills and have the opportunity to work with youth clubs, both of which are big aspects of the Let Girls Learn program. 

The Mountain Kingdom (that's Lesotho)'s implementation plan-many
acronyms because we are Peace Corps!

Another thing about the Let Girls Learn program that I found incredibly well planned is the push to engage the community at large and especially men and boys. Positive changes to cultural views, as noted last week in Ototo's article, requires far more than just the input of those who benefit the most from the changes. If men and boys are not included in the process, it will not succeed. 

Enjoying dinner with friends from PC Tanzania
 and PC Madagascar on our last night. 

One of my favorite things about the entire summit, however, were the moments spent outside of sessions. We were in session from 8:30 to 5:30 every day but our mealtimes and evenings were spent connecting with one another. Learning about the cultural similarities and difference between the countries we work in and the way that Peace Corps operates in difference countries was fascinating. I am sure I am not along in saying I got a plethora of new ideas from the staff and volunteers from different posts. 

With the summit complete on Saturday afternoon, I took the remaining two hours or daylight to explore the area around the Training Center, binoculars in hand, hoping for at least one new bird species to cap off a week spent in a country with numerous unique bird species. It was an unsuccessful attempt, although I did hear some and I checked out some cool mushrooms. 

The next day, our daylight drive to the airport allowed me the chance to see more of Madagascar. The hills and rice fields were beautiful. I was again impressed by the size of the capital in comparison to anything in Lesotho...but then again, Madagascar is significantly larger than Lesotho. While I would have loved a bit of time to check out birds and lemurs, the trip was predominantly about LGL and Peace Corps and I loved every minute of it. 

A bridge from the road to the rice fields on our drive into Antananarivo

Antananarivo or "Tana" sprawling into the background. Sadly I shot this just before the city's "Hollywood" styled sign
came into view. 

Adventures in Mabita: Clarens Weekend

While Botha Bothe is limited in its tourist attractions, it is only a short drive (especially in a private car) to many other places. One of these is the South African town of Clarens.

I recently went to Clarens for the first time with fellow PCV Nick. Clarens was, for us, an three-night adventure in walking, eating, and drinking. As a top tourist spot in Orange Free State, the small town has a number of locally owned restaurants, a brewery, small shops, and over a dozen art galleries.

Nick and me on the hills overlooking Clarens. 

Walking: Although it started as just walking around town and checking out the shops and galleries, we soon learned that the town has a conservancy that made and maintains a number of walking and hiking trails on the outskirts of town. Although there are town maps with the trails noted, we splurged on the inexpensive detailed map. We spent half of each day walking the trails.

While walking is a normal part of life in Lesotho, these trails were well designed and free from the animal dung that must be dodged on the paths I usually walk.


Eating: On my other vacations in South Africa, dining has been a small part of the experience with destinations, adventures, and wild animals being a bigger priority. In Clarens, however, it was all about food...so much food! We ate out every meal but one...and that meal comprised bread, cheese, sausage, and fig jelly from a nearby bakery.

All this and dessert??

Highlights of the eating included a  giant burger, a cheese plate, a sausage plate at a German place, waffles covered in mince, eggs, and cheese, and salmon blue cheese pasta. The clear winner, though, was everything from the Courtyard Cafe. We first went for their renowned Sunday lunch buffet, which was perhaps the most I have eaten in one sitting in a decade. It was absolutely amazing.

Our one at home dinner was purchased at their bakery. Monday morning the town becomes a sleepy shell of its weekend activity and a number of places were closed, so we returned and I drooled over salmon eggs benedict. Before we left town, we grabbed two muffins from their bakery, making four consecutive meals from the same place!

Yummy stout

Drinking: Normally, I get more excited about wine than beer. In Clarens, however, my excitement lay with delicious locally brewed stout from the Clarens Brewery. It was exactly what this dark beer loving lady needed after going through a dark beer drought since departing America. Seriously, I think I had more good dark beer in Clarens than in the previous 21 months despite having a porter in America in October and a porter in Cape Town in August.


My other favorite beverage, of course, will always be coffee. Nearly every restaurant in Clarens had great coffee options-particularly espresso based treats like cappuccinos. In case that was not enough to keep me caffeinated and moving, daily deliciousness from Highland Coffee filled each morning topped off with free Wi-Fi (something not often experienced reliably in Lesotho). Happy Beth!

Sleeping: We stayed at the Clarens Inn & Backpackers. This place is a large rambling estate with significantly more space than meets the eye. It has a lot of personality, each room and separate building has its own style and name. Eccentricity meets relaxation. Although it is a ten minute walk from the town square, it sits directly off the local trails.

Spoiling Oneself: Clarens also allowed me to get my favorite rare treat: a pedicure. Just before we left, I visited the Wellness Day Spa, where I had the best pedicure of my entire life. My toes are now a beautiful teal and looking much happier than they have in ages. The relaxing on a massage table with a lavender compress on my eyes was not too difficult either!


Other Adventures in Mabita:
     Ts'ehlanyane National Park
     Liphofung Caves

Transportation Tuesday: Moving Faster

Getting around in Lesotho without a personal car is surprisingly easy…if you have a lot of patience and even more time. Public transportation—in the form of large vans and small buses-goes almost everywhere, but the taxis make frequent stops, will not leave a population locale unless full, tend to cram as many people and supplies in as possible, and blast music at deafening volumes. Over the next month or so, I will be sharing a series of posts called Transportation Tuesday, which will highlight different aspects of transportation in Lesotho.

In case you missed the previous Transportation Tuesdays:

     Public Transport

     Five Reasons to Befriend Your Taxi Crew

     Befriending Your Taxi Crews

Three weeks ago, I traveled to Maseru during a monsoon. No, Lesotho does not have a monsoon season, but that day was rainy enough to qualify. 

The flooded donga...which had been dry the day before.

I left my house by 7:30. The thirty minute walk out of the village took an extra twenty minutes thanks to the slippery mud and flooded donga I had to traverse. I was picked up by the first taxi for the ride into town. Once in Botha Botha, I decided to take a Venture-a form of taxi that holds nine passengers. I paid my fare and hopped in. I shivered as we waited for four more passengers. When we set out, we made decent time to Maputsoe-a town not quite halfway to Maseru from my site-as we only stopped four times for passengers to get off or on.

My plan in Maputsoe was to "get a lift" or hitch to Maseru. I walked past all the taxis with their aggressive drivers and conductors trying to get me into their near empty cars to my usual hitching spot. There I stood for fifteen minutes with no one even slowing down in the rain for me. A taxi pulled up and gently encouraged me to hop in. I warned them I was in a hurry and would get out if they stopped for long but I got in. In the next major town, where taxis sometimes wait for hours, I was prepared to pitch a fit and hop out. Instead, almost as soon as we stopped, the other Maseru-bound passengers and I were shuffled onto a nearly full taxi. 

I was still wearing my raincoat, but had not put on my sweater as I wanted it to stay dry. The taxi was freezing because the driver's window was stuck open with a screwdriver in the opening to help hold it in place. As taxis usually do, we stopped and started the entire way to Maseru while I hugged the backpack on my lap pretending it provided warmth. When I reached the Maseru taxi rank, I hopped off the taxi and onto a 4+1 to go to the Peace Corps office. 

Nearly 100 Maloti and 6 hours later, I arrive at the office. 

Today, I made the same trip. It took less than the usual thirty minutes to walk out of the village because it was cold and dry. Moving faster kept me warm as I passed through the fog-filled donga. 

Nearing main road, I could see only 50 meters in any direction. I heard a taxi pass by before I reached the road. Once there, worried that the taxis might not see me. Before a taxi arrived, a car driving from Mokhotlong to Maputsoe picked me up. We cruised along, discussing the weather and my work. In no time at all, I was getting out. Because I knew the passengers were paying the driver for the ride, I handed them some cash before I left. 

I once again walked to my usual spot and in less than three minutes was in a nice SUV heading to Maseru. We made stopped only twice on our route-to pick up and drop off another PCV I saw. Throughout the ride we discussed American politics, our work, our families, and more. As we entered the city, my new friend, Ntate Tefo, asked me where I was headed and then dropped my at the office. 

Only 25 Malot and 3 hours after leaving home, I arrive. 

Hitching is a popular mode of transportation for Lesotho PCVs. While it is not encouraged by Peace Corps, it is also not against the rules. Between the time spent waiting in taxis for movement and the aggressive nature of the drivers and conductors-particularly those that drive through Maputsoe-hitching becomes the go to, especially for distance travel. 

I never hitch in and out of my community. In fact, today's lift from the main road is only the third time I have take a ride instead of a taxi into town. If a taxi had arrived first, I would have taken the taxi into town. That goes back to last week's post about befriending the taxi guys. They do not like it when they see people hitching in their area because it represents lost income. I respect them, so I ride with them. 

But when it comes to traveling out of Botha Bothe, the difference in time and money is profound. There are three major towns between BB and Maseru. That means waiting for a taxi to fill or fill again four times. That is a lot of sitting around not moving towards the final destination. It is exhausting. 

When I first came to Lesotho, other PCVs talked about hitching and I pretty much wrote it off and figured I would take public transport all the time. The American in me saw hitching as too dangerous for a woman alone-just like in the United States. But, after a few long trips and increasing comfort with the culture and language, I too found myself on the side of the road flagging down cars. 

Getting a lift is a great way to make new friends like these
two lovely ladies with their snazzy phones!

It is not just about time and money, however, hitching provides the chance to interact with professional and educated members of Basotho society. I have ridden with business owners, lawyers, doctors, a District Administrator (the top government official for a district), principals, and more. Through conversations, hitching has allowed me to help an organization apply for a new PCV, to invite the Queen to come to Camp GLOW, and to bring the women from my organization for training on keeping chickens.

The conversations with people as we travel are always interested and enlightening. Often they know more about what is happening in American news than I do. They have interesting questions and perspectives. And so while hitching saves money and saves even more time, it, like so many things in Peace Corps and in Lesotho, becomes about the people and the conversations.

A Comparison in Comfort:

Traveling from Botha Bothe to our Peace Corps training villages outside of Maseru:

Public Transport:  July 2014, Nick and I were crammed into the back of a venture facing one another with our two bags stacked across our laps. This was our first taxi. On the second, the aisle was completely full of luggage and people had tried to squish big bags in the small space overhead. One suitcase fell, landing on my head and Nick's arm.

Hitching: November 2014 with the same luggage. Behind us are empty seats and our luggage sits on the floor without taking up our leg space. Although out luggage is dripping with rain, we are completely comfortable in every way and thrilled about our speedy trip!

Transportation Tuesdays: Befriending Your Taxi Crews

Getting around in Lesotho without a personal car is surprisingly easy…if you have a lot of patience and even more time. Public transportation—in the form of large vans and small buses-goes almost everywhere, but the taxis make frequent stops, will not leave a population locale unless full, tend to cram as many people and supplies in as possible, and blast music at deafening volumes. Over the next month or so, I will be sharing a series of posts called Transportation Tuesday, which will highlight different aspects of transportation in Lesotho.

Last Tuesday, I covered Why to Become Besties with your Taxi Crew. Now that the value of being BFFs is clear, it is time to understand how to accomplish this important task.

How many PCVs can you fit in a taxi with their luggage?
As many as necessary if it is raining and everyone is ready to "
head back from three days of Christmas shenanigans!

Smile and Wave-ALWAYS

Even when you are not riding the taxi, you will see them drive through your village regularly. Always smile and wave. Bonus points if you do this before they honk and wave at you.

Greet With Enthusiasm

In Lesotho, this is the quickest way to gain friends and respect. The taxi drivers and conductors are no exception. As soon as you approach your rank, greet them. If you see them across the way, refer back to Smile and Wave.

Lend an Umbrella

When you’ve scrambled through a downpour to get into your taxi and the conductor is still standing outside trying to get more customers, offer him your umbrella. Not only will it keep it from dripping on you, but you may get to watch him do a little dance about “using Ausi Thato’s umbrella.”

Joke Around and Be Friendly

Just like airports in America, public transportation can bring out the worst in people in Lesotho too. Sometimes, they just want to arrive and they get impatient and sassy with the taxi crew because the taxi is not filling fast enough. While waiting hours to leave can suck, it does not suck just for you. The taxi crew only gets paid when they are actually moving people; they would like to leave too. So be nice to them. Socialize. Play along when they start joking around. You know, treat them like people.

Sit Down and Shut Up

Sometimes you are going to get a terrible seat. Sometimes even though your bestie gave you the front row, you are going to end up with no leg room because other people’s luggage and groceries are piled high. Sometimes you will think you are sitting next to someone with a couch that has your anxiety screaming tuberculosis. Sometimes the taxi will be overloaded and you will be one of four large women in the same row wondering how all that hip can fit. Sometimes there is going to be a sheep stepping on your groceries.

         No really, get over it.

Refer back to Smile and Wave but adapt it to Smile and Sharp. In Lesotho, “Sharp” means everything’s cool and is demonstrated by a thumbs up. When you are in a miserable spot and the driver catches your eye, just smile and give them a shrug or a sharp.

Do not be that person yelling about how you are only going to pay half because you did not get as much space as someone else. Do not yell or whine. Just accept what you’re given and get over it.

Your crew sees that you’re miserable. They will remember that you’re cool. They will make it up to you next time.