One year ago today, I swore in as a Peace Corps Volunteer with these seventeen amazing individuals! |
10. I polish floors
I do not
think I had ever polished a floor before moving to Lesotho. Here, I
find myself on my hands and knees polishing at least every other
month. Keeping the linoleum on my dirt floor clean is a constant
chore. I sweep more than daily to remove the sand that blows in and
the dust that falls from the thatch roof. This all moves much easier
when the friction is reduced thanks to floor polish. Of course, that
reduced friction also turns my floor into an uneven skating rink for
a few days, but that is just part of the fun!
9. I live here!
This one is a bit of a cheat as I was stumped for a tenth surprise. But the reality is that every day I cannot help but wonder at the roads my life has taken. I am amazed that I live in this beautiful country filled with wonderful, welcoming, and generous people. It is as if I awake every day expecting it to be a dream, but it is not. It is my actual life!
8. Easy Weight Loss
This one is a bit of a cheat as I was stumped for a tenth surprise. But the reality is that every day I cannot help but wonder at the roads my life has taken. I am amazed that I live in this beautiful country filled with wonderful, welcoming, and generous people. It is as if I awake every day expecting it to be a dream, but it is not. It is my actual life!
8. Easy Weight Loss
Everyone
I spoke with before Peace Corps warned me that women gain weight in
Peace Corps while men typically lose it. This is obviously a broad
generalization but is believed to be due to the high starch based
diets found in developing nations. In my case, however, I have lost
weight with absolutely no effort. My activity level is pretty much
where it was in America or lower, however, cooking for myself for the
first time in over a decade is probably contributing. I also believe
not thinking about it helps a lot. In America, women are bombarded by
ideas of how they should look and their value in all ways is at least
partially dependent upon their looks and what they wear. In Lesotho,
this is significantly reduced, people look how they look and wear
what they have. Since I have only a small mirror, I spend very little
time thinking about how I look. If it were not for the scale at the
Peace Corps office and my tape measure, I would have no idea I have
lost around fifty pounds. Of course, this could also be due to
wearing all the same clothes I brought with me. Sadly, this also
means that said clothes are ill fitting and less flattering. I now
roll my skirts to avoid stepping on them, my skinny jeans are saggy
jeans, and shirts now resemble tents. But, since I only see these
thing in pictures, I am finding I do not really care!
7. Phone Dependency
When
I was sailing, I would turn off my phone for weeks at a time. Once I
switched to dry land, I still was prone to leaving my phone behind or
keeping it on silent. I could get away with charging it only two to
three times a week. Now, my phone is a constant companion. I am quick
to reply to WhatsApp messages and phone calls. Some of this is
cultural as the Basotho expect someone to stop a conversation to
answer a call. But some of it is also that this phone my connection
to friends and family around the world. Some days, it is the only
English I experience. Every day it is a chance to keep up with things
happening in the lives of people I love, people I am going years
without seeing.
6. I Don't Miss Much
I do not often miss
places or things. There are moments I think, “Ooh, I would love to
get sushi right now,” and I definitely would miss brewed coffee if
my friends and family did not keep me incredibly well stocked thanks
to amazing care packages. But, for the most part, I am so
content with what I have here that I do not miss home. When I am
headed to the big city (Sarcasm...Maseru is only big in the tiny
context of Lesotho), I try to brainstorm a list of supplies and foods
I should buy as Maseru has so many more options than Butha Buthe.
But, when I walk into the comparatively larger and well stocked
stores in Maseru, I quickly become overwhelmed. I cross most of the
items off my list without purchase and walk out content with only one
or two treats like chocolate chips, balsamic vinegar, soy sauce, or a
spice only available in the capital.
I have tried to convince myself I need to buy new cloths that fit, but similarly, I walk into the stores, become overwhelmed, and decide my oversized clothes will do for another year. In one year, I have purchased the following clothing: slippers, one skirt, dress shirt, one t-shirt, two tank tops, and two traditional Seshoeshoe dresses.
I truly expected part of the hardship people discuss before Peace Corps to be missing things in America-showers, driving, shopping, electricity, machines, diverse restaurants and food-and I was astonished to learn that I only miss the friends and family I have left behind.
5. I Crave Time with other Americans
My
first few months after swearing in as a PCV, I was quite content to
spend all of my time in my village. Seeing other PCVs in town was
nice, but not necessary. Now, a year later, I find myself desperate
to spend time with the same people I would brush off to spend a quiet
day in my community. The longer I am here, the more I appreciate
times with other volunteers. It is not just that these are incredible
individuals with a sense of adventure and purpose like my own. It is
also the ease of spending time with people who understand my cultural
reference points. While I am old enough that most of them just look
confused when I start talking about Punky Brewster, they know much of
the same music, television ads, movies, and so on. As my grandfather
would say, we share a cultural IQ that allows us to enjoy easier camaraderie and jokes.
4. Bra Stuffing
I
have always been a well-endowed female. While movies and books are
filled with pre-teen girls stuffing their bra to look a bit older, I
am the one whose fourth grade school picture highlights that I should
have been wearing a bra. (Mom, please do not scan and share said
hideousness!) Thus, I have never stuffed my bra nor used it as a
storage device as I filled up all usable space in my bra. However,
here in Lesotho, my chest is considered small. As I wear skirts
often, my bra often serves as my only available pockets. Any given
day, it holds at least two of the following: toilet paper, keys,
money, phone, pedometer, hand sanitizer, notebook, pen, camera, gum,
etc. It helps that I find I now have a lot of extra space for all
these goodies thanks to number eight.
3. Health without Wealth
Before leaving for a life in rural Africa, I anticipated living
on hand sanitizer, vigilance about washing my food and hands, finally
stopping my nail biting habit, and torturous rounds of illness. While
I do occasionally wash my hands and use hand sanitizer, the reality
is that with less effort spent on sanitation and less facilities for
sanitation, I am healthier than I have ever been at home. In fourteen
months, I have had two small colds, two minor injuries worthy of
medical care (Remember my trip to the ER?),
and only minimal GI issues. Other than my first two months at site, I
have barely even needed the band-aids that Peace Corps supplies us.
It is not
just me either, for the most part, the Basotho that are part of my
every day life are also incredibly healthy. One of my brothers has
been a bit more accident prone lately, marking the first two times I
have seen anyone in my family bleed and the first time one of them
has visited a doctor.
I clearly
arrived with a preconceived notion that living away from all the
pristine and overly sanitary opportunities in America would lead to
more illness and more problems, but the reality, for me at least, is
quite the opposite.
2.
Proud Ameri-sotho
In
America, a lot of people spend time talking about how hated America
is by the rest of the world. While I have not necessarily witnessed
this concept during my travels in the Caribbean, Central America, or
Europe, it still impacted my perception of America. Here in Southern
Africa, however, whenever people learn I am from the United States,
they are envious. The immediate response is either “I want to go
there” or “Take me with you when you return.” Even when I note
that life in America is not easy either, people still want to be
there. America is their dream.
As
Lesotho's political situation has unraveled in the last few months,
the United States has threatened to cut off certain funding if the
government does not take action. Many Basotho have shared their fear
of this happening. They see America as the leader of all positive
international involvement in the country. They worry that if America
pulls funding, other countries and NGOs will follow the US's lead.
Since most groups followed our direction when we left briefly last
September due to the Coup, their fear is understandable.
Even
as my pride in being an American increases by being here, the best
complement I receive from villagers is “Ua Mosotho”. When I do
things that are culturally considered to be Basotho, they are
thrilled. Women in my village love to yell at people who try to speak
English to me in town, making sure it is understood that I am a Mosotho, I
speak Sesotho, and I am a child of Lesotho. Being that integrated and
loved is a crowning achievement for me.
1. Reliance on Help
I
have always been an independent person. My mother still jokes about
my independent nature as a child. American culture embraces and
encourages such independence. Here in Lesotho, accepting help and
even seeking it out are encouraged. It is nothing to go to a new town
without having a clear picture of where I need to get. The
expectation is that when I arrive, I can ask people for directions
and trust the answers I get. If I am unsure of how to deal with a
situation, rather than trying by myself, I need only ask and Basotho
are ready to help-such as with that rat I had a few months back and
its siblings my brothers have since trapped. This is not because I am
an American or a Peace Corps Volunteer, this is simply the way
culture works here. People ask for help and would be surprised if it
was not given.
I am always
amazed by the amount of trust and help I need to succeed here. Coming
from a culture where we are encouraged to deal with it on our own,
asking for help can be a challenge for me. Sometimes I would rather
stay in my hut and do nothing than go to a new place where I know I
will have to rely on the help of strangers, but every time I ask for
or receive help, I am awed by how wonderful it is. While I know that
returning to America and keeping this new-found part of me will be a
challenge, I hope I can. Giving and receiving help is an amazing way
to keep connected to people, whether you know them well or not. And
the reality is, most people are genuinely good people who only want
to help out their fellow human.
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